Agiorgitiko

By Yannis Voyatzis

Photography: Constantine Pittas

The king of red grapes in the Peloponnese, Agiorgitiko is cultivated in Nemea. It produces wines that are deep red in color with pronounced cassis and blackberry flavor and a rich, mature, velvety, luscious texture. The supple young Agiorgitiko wines are fruit-forward and are enjoyable early. However, there is enough big structure to support long-term cellaring (5-10 years).

A red Cretan grape, Kotsifali produces wines that are wonderfully juicy, with bright red plums and a good grip on the palate. It is usually blended with another island red grape, Mantilaria.

Liatiko

An exclusively Cretan grape, Liatiko is considered one of the oldest Greek varieties. It matures in July, hence its name, which is a transliteration of “Juliatiko.” Liatiko is a variety with high alcohol potential that best demonstrates its qualities when sufficiently ripe.

Limnio

Limnio, is an ancient a red grape varietal native to the island of Limnos. It was mentioned by Aristotle and other ancient writers. Today it is cultivated not only in

Limnos, but also in Halkidiki, and northern Greece, where it produces lovely, silky red with the exotic perfume of wet violets and cherries.

This red Aegean variety flourishes on the the islands of Paros, Rhodes, and Crete. It has an unruly character and is usually blended with other Greek varietals that soften its rougher qualities and add fine notes to its clearly earthy tones.

Mavrodaphne

This familiar aromatic grape is usually cultivated in the vineyards of Patra and Cephalonia. Most of its yield is used to produce the strong, sweet, high-grade, aged red wine that bears the same name.

Xinomavro

A red grape, it is the prime variety of northern Greece and is cultivated widely from the slopes of the central Greek mountains to the ranges of Pindos. It is the grape of Naoussa, Goumenissa,Amynteon, and Rapsani. Xinomavro has a distinctive, dark-red color and an acidic taste even when ripe. Its name means “sour black.” When young, Xinomavro wines are unyielding, but they soften with time and age beautifully, acquiring a unique complexity and palate that yields successive waves of cherry-tomato, plums, violets, and lilies. The wines can be a touch tannic but will smooth out with an hour or two of decanting.

Yannis Voyatzis is chief oenologist for Boutaris Wines and also produces his own label, Ktima Voyatzi, in northern Greece.